terça-feira, 3 de março de 2009

Gravata? Você ainda vai usar uma, jornalista

(Imagem cedida pela Estilo Press)

Bruna Caricati para InfoGente

Há indícios de que, no terceiro século a.C., algo semelhante à gravata foi utilizado pelos guerreiros chineses. Séculos mais tarde, ela foi adaptada e serviu como distintivo para os croatas a serviço da França na Guerra dos Trinta Anos. Atravessou o tempo e, em um passado mais recente, teve a função prática de esconder a fileira de botões da camisa. Hoje, ela confere elegância, segurança e poder a homens do mundo todo.

Elaboramos dicas práticas, básicas e valiosas de como acertar no uso desse acessório histórico.

Os tipos de gravatas

Formais: Para serem usadas em ocasiões especiais ou sérias, como reuniões importantes e casamentos.

Lisas

Regimentais
Apresentam listras diagonais. Eram feitas, inicialmente, para uniformes regimentais e escolas britânicas; porém, hoje, seguem as cores da moda.

Estampas de cashmere – Lembram “vírgulas gordinhas”.

Estampas de foulard
– Miúdas e discretas. Podem ser feitas com pequenos brasões, escudos ou insígnias.

Informais: Para o dia-a-dia e situações um pouco mais despojadas.

Poás Pequenas bolinhas.

Estampas geométricas

Desenhos variados

Como combinar
Camisa branca ou clara: aceitam qualquer tom ou desenho mais escuro que a camisa.
Camisa azul: tons de azul, verde, castanho, acinzentados e bordô.
Camisa colorida: gravatas lisas no tom ou com estampado que repita a cor.
Camisa cinza: tons de cinza (vale o tom sobre tom), bege, castanho, azul, vinho, marinho e preto. Cores mais escuras que a camisa. Porém, o cinza também aceita contraste com tonalidades vivas, como, por exemplo, amarelo, laranja e violeta, além de desenhos mais elaborados.
Camisa bege: tonalidades próximas, lisas ou estampadas em cinza, tons de azul, qualquer verde e rosés.
Camisa escura: gravatas e trajes mais escuros que a camisa. Lisas, texturizadas ou com microestampas em fundo escuro. Camisa preta fica bem com gravata preta ou marrom escuro, não é aconselhável ser mais clara que a camisa.
Camisa estampada: repita na gravata, que pode ser informal, as cores da estampa da camisa para criar harmonia.

Não faça feio
* A ponta da gravata deve ficar exatamente na altura do furo do cinto.
* O prendedor não é necessário, mas, se fizer questão, deve ser usado 20 cm acima da ponta da gravata e ficar preso à camisa.
* Colarinhos largos pedem nó mais cheio e volumoso, prefira gravatas robustas; colarinhos médios, nós intermediários, dê preferência à seda; e, por fim, com colarinhos estreitos, devem-se usar nós pequenos proporcionados por tecidos bem leves.

Informações de moda masculina concedidas gentilmente à InfoGente pela jornalista e consultora de imagem Cecília Lima.

38 comentários:

André Sollitto disse...

Muito legal esse pequeno guia! Bruna, vc precisa trazer mais coisas de moda para o blog!

Pedro Zambarda disse...

adorei a idéia da matéria, adoro gravatas e você sabia que gravata vermelha na Scilia significava que o homem era um assassino?

Isso é cultura árabe e italiana.

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Eu ja usei grvata branca com camisa branca, fica muito requintado, um toque de Menos é Mais....

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